Cold permanent wave composition

ABSTRACT

Hair-cosmetic compositions for improving the structure, resilience and strength of hair comprising a content of onic acids derived from aldohexoses or disaccharides containing a free aldehyde function and/or their γ- or δ-lactones and a method of improving the structure and strength of hair, particularly hair which has been adversely affected by cosmetic treatments such as dyeing, bleaching, permanent waving, etc.

This application is a continuation of application Ser. No. 679,109,filed Dec. 7, 1984 and now abandoned, which in turn was a continuationof application Ser. No. 529,544, filed Sept. 6, 1983, now abandoned.

STATE OF THE ART

The structure of hair is damaged by regular treatment with alkaline,highly reducing or oxidizing chemicals of the type used, for example, indyeing, bleaching or permanent waving. As a result of such structuredamage, the hair suffers loss of weight, develops split ends, becomesdifficult to comb and, if styled, loses its set and fullness. Inaddition, hair punished in this way is often dull and lifeless inappearance.

To overcome this deficiency, structure-improving agents have alreadybeen added to cosmetic preparations for hair and thesestructure-improving agents used are, primarily, formaldehyde andformaldehyde donors as well as S-acetyl succinic anhydride, ammoniumvinyl phosphonate, ammonium phosphonate and others. It has also beenproposed to use reducing sugars to improve the structure of hair andalthough substances such as these are effective to a certain extent,they can only be used in compositions of the type which do not reactwith the reducing aldehyde function. Thus, glucose cannot be used, forexample, in cold-wave preparations based on thioglycolic acid or in anoxidizing media, for example bleaching preparations or developeremulsions for dyeing creams.

German Offenlegungsschrift No. 24 38 534 describes scalp-carepreparations containing uronic acids, for example glucuronic acid, but,these compounds which also contain a free aldehyde function arevirtually inactive as hair structurants.

OBJECTS OF THE INVENTIONS

It is an object of the invention to provide novel hair cosmeticcomponents which improve hair structure and the ability of hair towithstand the effect of harmful chemical treatment agents.

It is another object of the invention to provide a novel method ofimproving the structure, resilience and strength of hair.

These and other objects and advantages of the invention will becomeobvious from the following detailed description.

THE INVENTION

The novel composition of the invention for improving the structure,resilience and strength of hair are hair cosmetic compositionscontaining an effective amount of at least one active ingredient of thegroup consisting of onic acids derived from aldohexoses anddisaccharides containing a free aldehyde group and their γ- andδ-lactones. The preferred content of said onic acids is 0.5 to 10% byweight, more preferably 1 to 5% by weight, of the hair cosmeticcomposition.

The structure improving effect of these onic acid additives issurprising because low molecular weight hydroxycarboxylic acids such asglycolic acid or glycerol monocarboxylic acid do not have a comparableeffect and uronic acids derived from monosaccharides, for exampleglucuronic acid, and the sugar acids, for example mucic acid, do nothave the same effect either as can be seen from Example 7.

The onic acids can be obtained from aldohexoses by careful oxidation ofthe aldehyde function such as with hypobromite or with dilute nitricacid. In alkaline solution, the onic acids are stable in their salt formwhereas the free acids readily change into the γ- or δ-lactones, theγ-lactones preferably being formed. Onic acids which likewise changereadily into the corresponding γ- or δ-lactones can also be obtained bycareful oxidation of disaccharides containing a free aldehyde function,for example from lactose, maltose, gentobiose, cellobiose, melibiose.Gluconic acid and/or lactobionic acid are preferably used in thehair-cosmetic agents of the invention.

The hair treatment agents of the invention considerably improve thestructure and strength of hair, but especially its ability to withstanddamage caused by the regular application of dyes, bleaches andpermanent-wave preparations. At the same time, this effect favorablyinfluences the combability and sheen of the hair and also the set andbody of hairstyles.

The hair-cosmetic agents according to the invention may be hair lotions,hair lacquers, hair sprays, dressing lotions, dressing creams, dressinggels, hair rinses, hair cures, cold-wave preparations, blow-wavepreparations, toning shampoos, toning foams, dyes or permanent-wavepreparations. It is particularly preferred to use the onic acids inhair-cosmetic agents containing strong reducing agents such as salts ofmercaptocarboxylic acids or of sulfurous acid or strong oxidizing agentssuch as alkali metal bromates or hydrogen peroxide because inpreparations such as these it is particularly desirable to reduce hairdamage and because reducing sugars are not stable therein. Accordingly,permanent-wave preparations, permanent-wave setting solutions anddeveloper emulsions for oxidation hair dyes containing onic acids areamong the preferred embodiments of the invention.

In addition to these onic acid components, the hair treatment agents ofthe invention contain the usual additives for such preparations such assolvents like ethanol or isopropanol, surfactants, cosmetic oilcomponents, polymeric film-forming agents, fragrances, dyes, complexingagents and standard hair-cosmetic active components such as revitalizingagents, cationic polymers, anti-dandruff agents, sebostatics, vitamins,antimicrobial agents and the usual substantive dyes or oxidation dyeprecursors for dyeing hair, the usual oxidizing agents for developingoxidation dyes, the usual reducing agents for shaping hair such as saltsof thioglycolic acid or sodium sulfite or the usual oxidizing agents forsetting permanent waves such as sodium bromate.

The novel method of the invention for improving the structure of humanhair comprises contacting the hair with an amount of at least one activeingredient of the group consisting of onic acids derived fromaldohexoses and diaccharides containing an aldehyde group and their γandδ-lactones sufficient to improve the quality of the hair.

In the following examples there are described several preferredembodiments to illustrate the invention. However, it should beunderstood that the invention is not intended to be limited to thespecific embodiments. The ingredients in the examples are indicated asparts by weight unless otherwise indicated.

EXAMPLE 1

A hair lotion was prepared consisting of 2 parts of Cetiol HE (a polyolfatty acid ester), 1.0 part of Extrapon Birke special, 3.0 parts oflactobionic acid, 30 parts of isopropanol, 1.0 part of perfume oil and63.0 parts of water.

EXAMPLE 2

A hair lacquer was prepared containing 1.5 parts of Luviskol VA64 (acopolymer of vinylpyrrolidone and vinyl acetate), 1.5 parts of gluconicacid, 50.0 parts of isopropanol, 1.0 part of perfume oil and 46.0 partsof water.

EXAMPLE 3

A hair dressing cream was prepared consisting of 8.0 parts of Cetiol HE(a polyol fatty acid ester), 20 parts of isopropanol, 1.0 part ofCarbopol 940, 0.8 part of triethanolamine, 4.0 parts of lactobionicacid, 1.2 parts of perfume oil and 65.0 parts of water.

EXAMPLE 4

A cold-wave emulsion was prepared consisting of 73.0 parts of water, 2.0parts of gluconic acid, 6.0 parts of Eumulgin 384 (an emulsifier), 0.3parts of Turpinol SL (a complexing agent), 8.0 parts of thioglycolicacid, 7.0 parts of 25% aqueous ammonium hydroxide solution, 3.0 parts ofammonium carbonate and 0.4 parts of dyes and opacifiers.

EXAMPLE 5

A cold permanent wave composition was prepared consisting of 79 0 partsof water, 2.0 parts of lactobionic acid, 3.5 parts of potassium bromate,5.0 parts of Comperlan KD (a fatty acid alkanolamide) 10.0 parts ofTexapon SG (22% sodium lauryl ether sulfate), 0.3 parts of perfume oiland 0.2 parts of dye.

EXAMPLE 6

A developer emulsion for dyeing or bleaching cream was preparedconsisting of 55.2 parts of water, 0.8 parts of ammonia, 2.0 parts ofgluconic acid, 2.0 parts of Texapon NSO (28% sodium lauryl ethersulfate), 2.0 parts of complexing agent, 23.0 parts of 50% hydrogenperoxide solution and 15.0 parts of Latekoll D (polymer dispersion).

EXAMPLE 7

The hair cosmetic effects of the compositions of the invention werecompared with the prior art compositions in the form of an aqueoussolution containing 2% by weight of the active component in deionizedwater. In the test, strands of hair approximately 25 cm long andweighing approximately 2 g, of the standard "light grey hair" type(Klugmann, Code 6626), were tied together at one end and accuratelyweighed. They were then bleached for 45 minutes at 20° C. using astandard, commercially available superbleaching cream containing 6% byweight of hydrogen peroxide and 10% by weight of (NH₄)₂ S₂ O₈ and havinga pH-value of 9.0. After rinsing with tap water at 40° C. and drying ina stream of warm air, the strands were immersed for 2 minutes in a 2%aqueous solution of the active component, for example gluconic acid.After the excess liquid had been stripped off, the strands were againdried in a stream of warm air and were then placed for 30 minutes in astandard commercially available permanent-wave emulsion containing 9.5%by weight of ammonium thioglycolate, 5% by weight of ammonium carbonateand having a pH-value of 8.8 at 20° C. and subsequently treated with asetting solution. After drying, the strands were again treated for 2minutes with the 2% test solution and dried.

This process of bleaching, structurant treatment, permanent waving,structurant treatment was carried out three times in succession, thelast structurant treatment being omitted. After drying, the strands ofhair combed out under defined conditions. Because of the damage causedto the hair, combing was accompanied by a weight loss which wasdetermined by weighing. The control value without any componenttreatment amounted to 45±2% by weight. The test results obtained withthe ingredients of the invention and with prior art products are shownin the Table.

    ______________________________________                                        2% by weight of   % Weight loss through                                       component in water                                                                              hair damage                                                 ______________________________________                                        controls - no additive                                                                          45 ± 2% by weight                                        Gluconic acid     24                                                          Lactobionic acid  28                                                          Glycolic acid     42                                                          D-glucuronic acid 43                                                          D-saccharic acid  42                                                          Mucic acid        44                                                          ______________________________________                                    

The results in the Table clearly show the advantages of the compositionsof the invention by their substantially reduction of weight loss whilethe prior art compositions had substantially no effect on weight loss.

Various modifications of the compositions and method of the inventionmay be made without departing from the spirit or scope thereof and itshould be understood that the invention is intended to be limited onlyas defined in the appended claims.

What we claim is:
 1. In an aqueous composition for cold permanent wavingof human hair comprising an aqueous hair cosmetic composition containingat least one reducing agent selected from the group consisting of a saltof a mercaptocarboxylic acid and sulfurous acid, the improvementconsisting of the addition of from 0.5 to 10% by weight of at least onesecond ingredient of the group consisting of (1) gluconic acid,lactobionic acid and (2) their γ- and δlactones to improve thestructure, resilience and strength of human hair.
 2. A composition ofclaim 1 containing 1 to 5% by weight of the second ingredient.